Fiery Jalapeno Sauce

School is out, our neighborhood berry stand is open, the ice cream truck is making its rounds and the sun is shining. We’ve been enjoying graduation, Father’s Day, wedding anniversary and birthday festivities during this past week – so much to celebrate! Sam’s high school graduation ceremony was truly wonderful. I was filled with pride (and a few tears) as the music began and the students filed into the stadium. What an incredible Class of 2013! And now, on to more summer ...

With warmer weather here, we are grilling and eating more salads. A marvelous condiment that appears often on our table and barbecue is this jalapeno sauce. Our family loves heat and spice, so when our friend Alison first made this fiery sauce for us we quickly devoured it.

I’m always a fan of chiles and vinegar together (homemade sriracha is another staple of ours). Alison uses balsamic vinegar in this sauce, and I think it is a brilliant addition. Fresh jalapenos, garlic, olive oil, shallots and balsamic vinegar are blended to create a quick sauce that packs a wollop of flavor.

This jalapeno sauce is an easy way to liven up a dish. I’ve been stirring it in to salad dressings and jazzing up grains with it. Definitely a favorite around here! With grilling season upon us, it makes a terrific marinade, too. Over Father’s Day weekend, we slathered boneless chicken thighs with this green hot sauce and barbecued. It was simply fantastic!

Happy summer to you!

Fiery Jalapeno Sauce
Makes 2 cups
Inspired by Alison Philbin of Mt. Gardner Inn

1 pound fresh jalapenos, roughly chopped and including the seeds (be careful when handling the chiles  - wear gloves or wash your hands well after chopping)
1 large clove of garlic
1 medium shallot, roughly chopped
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
1/8 cup olive oil

Combine all the ingredients in a food processor and blend until a smooth sauce is formed. Store in a covered jar in the fridge. It will keep for at least a month.

Cherry Mint Shrub

With summer whispering in my ear, I’ve begun happily putting the screens back on the windows, pulling out the barbecue and digging out my flip-flops. We spent this past long weekend in the sunny Methow Valley, and even though we came back to rain I still have warm days on my mind. And warm days call for something refreshing to sip, such as a shrub.

Shrubs date back to the Colonial days in America, when vinegar was used as a way of preserving berries and other fruit. The fruit-and-vinegar syrup was mixed with seltzer and became a popular drink.  I grew up in Lexington, Massachusetts, and colonial wisdom such as this is near and dear to my heart. Discovering this traditional beverage sent me into the kitchen, excited to try my hand at it.

Making shrub syrup is quite simple and, since I chose to make a cold processed one it does not involve any cooking. Fruit is mixed with sugar and left to macerate for a couple of days, and then the resulting juice is mixed with vinegar. Dark red cherries are spilling over in the markets now, and I began thinking about how good their sweet, juicy flavor would be in a shrub.

Remembering to don an apron (messy business, this cherry-pitting), I gently mashed pitted cherries with coconut sugar and then muddled some fresh mint for an herbal note. After a couple of days in the fridge, I drained the juice and stirred in some cider vinegar. Since cherries and balsamic pair so well, I added a touch of that, too, and was pleased.

I loaded up a tray with jars, ice, a bottle of seltzer and my cherry mint shrub to mix drinks outside. A splash of shrub syrup, topped off with bubbly seltzer, was pure refreshment. The first sip was a bit bracing from the vinegar flavor, but then I settled into the tangy, fruity, unique flavor that is a shrub. As my ice cubes gently clinked and melted, I sank back and savored cherries in a whole new way ... and began listening for more summer whispers.

Cherry Mint Shrub
Makes 1 cup of syrup

3 cups fresh red cherries, halved and pitted
1/4 cup fresh mint, roughly chopped
1/2 cup coconut sugar
1/2 cup apple cider vinegar
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
Seltzer and ice for serving

Place the cherries, mint and coconut sugar in a bowl and gently mash (I used a pastry cutter). Cover the bowl and place in the fridge to macerate for 2 days.

Place a fine mesh strainer over a small bowl and pour the cherry mixture through. Press to release as much juice as possible. Save the solids to stir into yogurt if desired.

Add the cider and balsamic vinegar and stir until well combined. Pour a splash (or two, depending on taste) into a glass, top with seltzer and ice and serve. Store any unused shrub syrup in the fridge.

Balsamic Grape Skillet Soufflé ... Sort Of

The first soufflé I ever made was Julia Child’s classic cheese soufflé, which was years ago. I loved it, and am a bit unsure as to why I have not made another since then. Plus, soufflé is such a fun word to say - wouldn’t it be marvelous to say, “I made a soufflé today”? Makes me smile.

Abby Dodge’s Bake Together challenge this month is an enticing one. As soon as I saw her Caramelized Pear Skillet Soufflé, memories of soufflé making emerged and my mind began racing with different combinations - quince and cranberry? mushroom, leek and blue cheese? This seemed a tasty way to step out and try soufflé in a new way – in a skillet with caramelized fruit or veggies.

After a bit of pondering, I decided on grapes. Granted, I am not the biggest grape fan, but I just rediscovered the most delicious juice ever – unfiltered Concord grape – and it has me pausing to rethink grapes. I’ve also been seeing grapes roasted and added to pies and chicken dishes, and since I like anything roasted it seemed that cooking with grapes might open a whole new world. It did.

I tossed some black grapes into my skillet to sizzle in butter, and then poured in a splash of balsamic vinegar and a spoonful of honey. The fragrance of the grapes made my taste buds tingle and I could easily have eaten the entire skillet right then and there and called it good. While the fruit cooked, I whisked together egg yolks, honey and goat cheese, then whipped egg whites to fold in.

My soufflé puffed up into a golden brown beauty. I carefully pulled it from the oven and flipped it onto a serving plate so the grapes would be on top. Alas, I joined many others in a classic kitchen woe – my soufflé fell. Sigh.Were the grapes too heavy? Perhaps I lost volume when folding? I didn’t have enough grapes left to try again, so I began to nibble this one. With its caramelized edges, intense grape flavor and rich, delicate body, I had a hard time stopping. So, in the spirit of Julia Child, I declared victory and called it a soufflé-pancake. A success! And then I had to tuck the rest away so there would be some to share with my family later.

This would be ideal for supper with a green salad and glass of wine (more grapes!). You can be sure I’ll happily make this again, and no matter how it turns out it’ll be delicious. And those plump, balsamic-spiked grapes? Isaac has already requested them in place of blueberries for his birthday pancakes next year.

Balsamic Grape Skillet Soufflé
Adapted from Abby Dodge’s Caramelized Pear Skillet Soufflé
Serves 2 to 4

For the balsamic grapes
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces
12 ounces black grapes, seeded if needed
1/8 cup balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon honey

For the soufflé
2 eggs, separated and at room temperature
1/3 cup soft goat cheese at room temperature
1 tablespoon honey
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Have a flat serving plate ready.

Make the balsamic grapes:
In an 8 inch skillet (I used cast iron), melt the butter over medium heat until the foaming stops. Add the grapes and cook, stirring occasionally, until the grapes soften, for about 7-8 minutes. Add the balsamic vinegar and honey and stir to coat the grapes. Cook for an additional 2-3 minutes, until the vinegar and honey thicken a little. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside while you make the soufflé.

Make the soufflé:
In a medium bowl, whisk the yolks, goat cheese and honey together until well blended and smooth. Add the flour and salt and whisk until well blended.

In a (very clean) medium bowl or a stand mixer, beat the egg whites with an electric mixer fitted with a whisk attachment on medium speed until the whites are frothy, 30 – 45 seconds. Increase the speed to medium high and beat until the whites are very foamy and barely soft peaks. Increase the speed to high and continue beating until the peaks are glossy and form soft, floppy peaks. Do not over mix. Scrape the beaten whites into the yolk mixture and gently fold until just blended.

Heat the skillet (with the grapes) over medium low heat until the mixture is warm. Arrange the grapes evenly in the bottom of the skillet. Gently pour/scrape the soufflé mixture into the skillet and smooth the top. Reduce heat to low and cook until the edges begin to look dry, 3 to 4 minutes.

Using a potholder, slide the skillet into the oven and bake until the top is puffed, golden brown and the center springs back when lightly pressed, 5 to 7 minutes. Working quickly and using potholders (the handle is hot), move the skillet to a cooling rack. Gently place the serving plate on top of the soufflé and invert. Carefully lift off the skillet. Using a small serrated knife, cut into wedges and serve immediately.

Kale and Polenta Stew

This morning is overcast. Normally, this is not an unusual observation in Seattle, but after the most glorious end-of-summer and start-of-fall we have had, ever, I am noticing. The warm sunshine, blue sky and crisp evenings have been such a gift. Now that rain appears imminent and the air turning chilly, thoughts are emerging of a warming bowl of stew and getting cozy around a fire.

I can’t resist a bowl of grains and greens. In fact, I will choose this over a bowl of beef stew (much to my family’s wonder). Given my love of kale, I frequently sauté a bunch or two with garlic and a little spice to enjoy as a side dish, or top it with a fried egg for a quick supper. Sometimes I may toss in leftover brown rice, too. In my opinion, grains and greens pair wonderfully.

With this in mind, I began thinking about a hearty stew. I always enjoy a bowl of comforting polenta, and stirring in my quick supper of kale, onions, garlic and chiles seemed a natural fit. For some protein, I added chickpeas. I’ve been inspired by Emmy (she writes a lovely blog with daily recipes I guarantee you’ll want to eat!) to cook a pot of chickpeas more often. This means I have a stash of these cute little legumes in the fridge or freezer ready to pop into a soup or salad, or to roast for snacking. I also save the cooking liquid to use wherever broth is called for, making it ideal for preparing the polenta for this stew.

The change in weather is eased by a bowl of Kale and Polenta stew, with a drizzle of balsamic vinegar adding the final touch. Frankly, I need more time to read, too - I’m in the midst of Wicked in anticipation of seeing the show here next month, and am having a hard time putting Japanese Farm Food down. I’m happy to come inside.

Kale and Polenta Stew
Serves 6

3 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, diced
5 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 large carrot, sliced thinly
8 ounces (roughly 2 bunches) kale, stems removed and leaves chopped (I use Lacinato)
Crushed red chile pepper to taste
Salt and pepper to taste
7 cups chickpea cooking broth or vegetable stock
1 cup polenta
2 1/2 cups cooked chickpeas (drain and rinse if using canned)
Balsamic vinegar to drizzle

In a large soup pot, warm the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic and carrots and stir to coat. Let cook until the veggies soften, about 5-6 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and a few shakes of crushed red chile peppers. Add the chopped kale and toss for 2-3 minutes, until it begins to soften.

Pour in the broth or stock, increase the heat and bring to a boil. Slowly add the polenta, stirring the whole time to keep it smooth. Lower the heat and let simmer for about 20 minutes. It should be like a thick soup. Stir in the chickpeas and taste for seasoning.

Ladle into bowls and drizzle a little balsamic vinegar over the top of each before serving.

White Bean and Vegetable Soup for a Winter Supper

Let me begin by saying I love this soup. Granted, I am a soup lover, but this is one I always look forward to. After a day spent in the snow, a fragrant bowl of White Bean and Vegetable Soup is enticing and draws us back inside. Soup warms you in a deeply satisfying way, much like sinking into a soft, hand-knit sweater does.

What attracts me to this soup in particular is its star ingredient, balsamic vinegar. There are so many ways to love balsamic vinegar (I now have a love affair going with caramelized balsamic vinegar since discovering it in Australia). Here, balsamic vinegar adds incredible richness and flavor to the mélange of white beans, tomatoes and veggies.

It’s a terrific soup for whatever is in the fridge – any diced root vegetables such as rutabagas, Yukon Gold potatoes, sweet potatoes or parsnips can be added. A handful of green beans tossed in with some fresh dill would change up the flavors nicely.

The key here is the combination of balsamic vinegar, tomatoes and red wine which creates a luscious basis for the soup. I don’t usually measure the balsamic vinegar - I tend to start with a few splashes and taste from there to see how it mixes and infuses with the rest of the ingredients.

Light some candles, grate some Parmesan, warm a crusty baguette and you’ll have a lovely winter supper to share with friends.

White Bean and Vegetable Soup
Serves 8

Olive oil
1 onion, diced
5 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
4 ribs celery, diced
4 carrots, peeled and diced
2 cups cabbage, shredded
1 quart organic vegetable broth
3 15 ounce cans white beans, drained and rinsed
1 28 ounce can diced tomatoes with juices
1 6 ounce can tomato paste
1 cup red wine
Balsamic vinegar
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 cup fresh parsley, chopped
Crushed red chile peppers (optional)
Shredded Parmesan cheese for serving
Baguette for dipping

In a Dutch oven or large soup pot, warm a few tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat. Add the onions and sauté until they start softening, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, celery and carrots and give the vegetables a stir. Cook until they begin softening, about 10 minutes. Add another few tablespoons of olive oil if the mixture seems dry. Toss in the cabbage and continue cooking for a few more minutes, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan.

Stir in the vegetable broth, white beans, tomatoes, tomato paste and red wine. Add a few splashes of balsamic vinegar, a sprinkle of kosher salt and a few grinds of pepper. Cook until the broth begins to bubble up a bit, then turn the heat down to low, partially cover the pot and let simmer for about an hour. Check the soup a few times to stir it, taste for salt, pepper and balsamic vinegar and to see if the veggies are softened.

Towards the end of cooking, stir in the parsley and a few shakes of crushed red chile peppers if desired. The soup can be made a day ahead or earlier in the morning and reheated before serving (it improves if given some time to sit).

Serve with Parmesan cheese and additional olive oil and balsamic vinegar for drizzling. Dip crusty hunks of baguette in to the soup and enjoy.