Israeli-Style Salad with Crispy Chickpeas

Salad and summer go hand in hand. When the sun is shining and temperatures soar, a crunchy, refreshing salad is wonderful, even for breakfast. This month for Tasting Jerusalem, we’ve been focusing on all the brilliant salads that are featured in Jerusalem. Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi share an abundance of creative, tempting recipes and it’s been such a treat to explore them.

A salad that caught my eye was the Spiced Chickpeas and Fresh Vegetable Salad. Diced cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, red pepper, radishes and herbs are served alongside a generous helping of well-spiced, fried chickpeas. I’ve had this recipe marked for months now and when I learned of July’s theme I couldn’t wait to make it.

The salad is similar to a traditional Israeli one, which typically includes tomatoes, cucumbers, parsley or cilantro and onions, and is a staple in our household. I decided to change the recipe up a bit and use some herbs I had on hand. In place of the customary parsley and cilantro, I chopped up fresh mint and lemon thyme for a pop of summer flavor. Inspired by another salad recipe in Jerusalem that I’ve enjoyed, I added kohlrabi in place of the radishes for more crunch. I also like to include diced pickles in my Israeli salad (something I learned from my dear friend, Iris) so I went ahead and chopped a few up. Speaking of chopping, when making a salad like this, it’s important to have a small, even dice for both the texture and look.

Rather than frying the chickpeas, I roasted them in the oven since this is one of my favorite snacks and I liked the idea of using them in a new way. Tossed with cardamom, cumin, sumac and a pinch of salt, the chickpeas emerged fragrant and toasty from the oven. If you like to nibble as I do, I’d recommend making extra chickpeas or you may not have any left for the salad!

I was very pleased! There’s a lot going on with the flavors and textures in this pretty salad. After drizzling olive oil and a squeeze of lemon over it, I sprinkled the chickpeas on like croutons. I was even able to use large tomatoes from our garden. (In July! I just have to pause here and say large, ripe tomatoes in July are a first ... we usually only get little Sungolds in late July and the bigger ones in August and September. Truly a glorious time.) And if you’re looking for some breakfast inspiration, this salad is divine served with a couple of hard boiled eggs and plain yogurt on the side.

Israeli-Style Salad with Crispy Chickpeas
Serves 4 generously
Adapted from Jerusalem: A Cookbook
By Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi

1 cup cooked, drained chickpeas
3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1/4 teaspoon cardamom
1/2 teaspoon cumin
1/4 teaspoon sumac
A pinch of flaky sea salt
1 English cucumber, cut into a 1/2 inch dice
2 large tomatoes, cut into a 1/2 inch dice
1/2 large red bell pepper, cut into a 1/2 inch dice
4 medium sized pickles, preferably a bit spicy, cut into a 1/2 inch dice
12 ounces (6 small) kohlrabi, peeled and cut into a 1/2 inch dice
1/2 of a red onion, cut into a 1/2 inch dice
10 sprigs of lemon thyme, leaves removed
1/4 cup fresh mint, roughly chopped
1/2 lemon, juiced (or more to taste)
Salt and pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Dry the cooked chickpeas well by rolling them between 2 kitchen towels. This will help them get crisper. On a small, rimmed baking sheet drizzle 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Add the chickpeas and roll them around to coat. In a small bowl, combine the cardamom, cumin, sumac and a pinch of sea salt. Sprinkle this mixture over the chickpeas and toss them gently to coat. Roast the chickpeas until they are crispy, about 20-30 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside.

In a large serving bowl, combine all the veggies and herbs. Drizzle with the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil and lemon juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Just before serving, scatter the chickpeas on top.

Chickpea and Chicken Stew for Purim

A boisterous weekend is promised with the arrival of Purim! Purim is a time of merriment, the holiday celebrating Queen Esther and Mordecai’s victory of saving the Jews of Persia from the wicked Haman. Children and adults alike dress in costumes and festivities abound.

While hamentaschen are a popular cookie to bake for Purim (when I was cooking at Hillel UW I was baking hundreds of hamentaschen at this time each year!), chickpeas are also traditional to eat. According to the Purim story, while Queen Esther lived in the court of King Ahasuerus, she ate mostly legumes so that she could maintain a kosher diet. For this reason, it is customary to eat chickpeas on Purim. As a simple snack, chickpeas are often warmed and sprinkled with salt and lots of freshly ground black pepper.

Over the past fifteen years or so, I’ve been making a chickpea and chicken stew that has become a favorite in our family. In the spirit of Purim, I include a blend of Persian-inspired spices with cinnamon, saffron and cardamom.

I begin by soaking dried chickpeas the night before I want to make the stew. Once this step is done, though, the stew is quick to prepare. The chickpeas cook along with the chicken, making it a one-pot meal (and even a possible weeknight dinner). After dicing a couple of onions and sautéing them in olive oil, I stir in the spices and chicken, followed by the soaked chickpeas, some chicken broth and a squeeze of lime. At this point, you can leave the stew to simmer while you chop a salad, steam some rice (or my new favorite, cauliflower “rice”) and open a bottle of wine.

The fragrant spices mingle together as the stew bubbles, taking you to far-away lands and filling your house with a delicious aroma. The chicken is tender and velvety, the chickpeas add a soft pop of texture and the onions melt into a luscious sauce. A bowl of stew energizes us for the Purim carnivals and hamentaschen eating yet to come. Chag Purim Sameach (Happy Purim)!

Chickpea and Chicken Stew
Serves 6

1 cup dried chickpeas
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 large onions, diced
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon cardamom
A pinch of saffron threads
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 3-4 pound organic chicken, cut into 6 serving pieces
3 cups organic chicken broth
Juice of 1 lime
1 cup Italian parsley, chopped
Steamed rice for serving

The night before you plan to make this stew, cover the chickpeas in a bowl with water and let soak overnight.

In a large Dutch oven or heavy soup pot (I use a 5 quart size), heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the onions and cook until soft, about 7-8 minutes, stirring a few times. Add the cinnamon, ginger, cardamom, saffron, salt and pepper and after a stir let cook for a minute. Add the chicken pieces and allow the chicken to cook and brown for a few minutes. Drain the chickpeas and stir them in. Pour in the chicken broth and lime juice and gently stir to mix. The chickpeas should be covered but the chicken may not be completely submerged – this is ok.

Bring the stew to a boil, partially cover the pot and lower the heat. Let simmer for about 45-50 minutes, until the chickpeas are soft and the chicken is tender. The stew can be prepared ahead and rewarmed before serving. Just before eating, stir in the chopped parsley and taste for additional salt and pepper. Serve with bowls of steamed rice.

Kale and Polenta Stew

This morning is overcast. Normally, this is not an unusual observation in Seattle, but after the most glorious end-of-summer and start-of-fall we have had, ever, I am noticing. The warm sunshine, blue sky and crisp evenings have been such a gift. Now that rain appears imminent and the air turning chilly, thoughts are emerging of a warming bowl of stew and getting cozy around a fire.

I can’t resist a bowl of grains and greens. In fact, I will choose this over a bowl of beef stew (much to my family’s wonder). Given my love of kale, I frequently sauté a bunch or two with garlic and a little spice to enjoy as a side dish, or top it with a fried egg for a quick supper. Sometimes I may toss in leftover brown rice, too. In my opinion, grains and greens pair wonderfully.

With this in mind, I began thinking about a hearty stew. I always enjoy a bowl of comforting polenta, and stirring in my quick supper of kale, onions, garlic and chiles seemed a natural fit. For some protein, I added chickpeas. I’ve been inspired by Emmy (she writes a lovely blog with daily recipes I guarantee you’ll want to eat!) to cook a pot of chickpeas more often. This means I have a stash of these cute little legumes in the fridge or freezer ready to pop into a soup or salad, or to roast for snacking. I also save the cooking liquid to use wherever broth is called for, making it ideal for preparing the polenta for this stew.

The change in weather is eased by a bowl of Kale and Polenta stew, with a drizzle of balsamic vinegar adding the final touch. Frankly, I need more time to read, too - I’m in the midst of Wicked in anticipation of seeing the show here next month, and am having a hard time putting Japanese Farm Food down. I’m happy to come inside.

Kale and Polenta Stew
Serves 6

3 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, diced
5 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 large carrot, sliced thinly
8 ounces (roughly 2 bunches) kale, stems removed and leaves chopped (I use Lacinato)
Crushed red chile pepper to taste
Salt and pepper to taste
7 cups chickpea cooking broth or vegetable stock
1 cup polenta
2 1/2 cups cooked chickpeas (drain and rinse if using canned)
Balsamic vinegar to drizzle

In a large soup pot, warm the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic and carrots and stir to coat. Let cook until the veggies soften, about 5-6 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and a few shakes of crushed red chile peppers. Add the chopped kale and toss for 2-3 minutes, until it begins to soften.

Pour in the broth or stock, increase the heat and bring to a boil. Slowly add the polenta, stirring the whole time to keep it smooth. Lower the heat and let simmer for about 20 minutes. It should be like a thick soup. Stir in the chickpeas and taste for seasoning.

Ladle into bowls and drizzle a little balsamic vinegar over the top of each before serving.