Pausing for Cheesecake

Cheesecake got me back in the kitchen. Sadly, I haven’t spent much time there lately other than to dash in for quick meals before rushing to the next task. But with Shavuot arriving, I had to take some time out to bake cheesecake. After all, it’s cheesecake!

Shavuot is a Jewish holiday that marks the day Moses received the Torah at Mount Sinai. Festive dairy dishes are traditionally served, which may be due to Shavuot falling in spring when sheep, goats and cows are producing an abundance of milk. Luscious treats such as cheese blintzes and cheesecake are happily eaten to celebrate. Our community in Seattle even hosts a cheesecake bake-off each year. I’d love to do that here in the Methow Valley some year!

I just got some new little spring form pans in at the store – so cute! – which inspired me to try making baby cheesecakes using a terrific recipe for New York style cheesecake that I’ve tweaked and baked countless times over the years. I prefer its classic, simple flavor, adorned only with a few berries.  Let me tell you, this one is dense and rich and creamy.

While the crust is usually made with graham crackers, any cookie crumbs can be used. Shortbread, ginger snaps or vanilla wafers made wonderful crusts, too. For these mini cheesecakes, I decided on chocolate wafers.

When making cheesecake, you really need to plan ahead. It’s important that all the ingredients are room temperature so that they blend together easily. Once baked, cheesecake must chill for at least six hours or preferably overnight. It’s a marvelous dessert to make ahead, especially since it will keep for a few days in the fridge. Something else I learned more recently is that you get the smoothest texture possible when the filling is whizzed in a food processor rather than using a mixer. I definitely recommend this method.

Being back in the kitchen baking was quite restorative and a welcome respite. Those tasks I mentioned earlier? More transition. We have decided it’s time to move our life here completely, which means packing up 20 years in Seattle and moving it to a house here in the valley. This house is over 100 years old and we are painting, pulling carpet, hanging drywall, ripping out cabinets and getting to know it inch by inch, making it our home. It’s by the river and the soothing sound of water rushing by is already familiar.

And there’s yet one more very big transition … Isaac graduates from high school next week! Which means 20 years of full time parenting is winding down. There are no words for all the emotions I’m feeling. I’m a proud mama with much to celebrate.

So I guess that’s all the big news. And I didn’t even mention them until the end of this post. I guess I’m still coming to terms. It’s been a whirlwind, many weeks counting down towards Isaac’s graduation, the end of an era, a new beginning, a new house. But I’m happy.

Cheesecakes with Chocolate Crust
Makes 6 – 4 ½ inch spring form pans or 1 – 9 inch spring form

1 ½ cups finely ground chocolate wafer crumbs
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
5 - 8 ounce packages cream cheese, room temperature
1 ½ cups sugar
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
Juice of ¼ lemon
1 teaspoon vanilla
5 eggs, room temperature
2 egg yolks, room temperature

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Place the spring form pans on a rimmed baking sheet. In a medium sized bowl, stir together the chocolate wafer crumbs and butter until well mixed. Divide the crust mixture evenly between the pans and gently smooth onto the bottoms. Set aside.

Place the cream cheese, sugar, flour, lemon juice and vanilla in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until it begins to come together (the bowl will be very full). Add 3 eggs and pulse a few times. Add the remaining 2 eggs and egg yolks and pulse. Scrape the sides and bottom carefully with a spatula. At this point, turn the food processor on and blend until the batter is very smooth.

Divide the batter evenly between the 6 pans and smooth the tops. Place the baking sheet in the oven and bake for 40-45 minutes, until just set. Remove the baking sheet from the oven and let the cheesecakes cool.

Once cool, cover each one and pop into the fridge to chill for at least 6 hours. They will keep for up to one week. Serve with fresh berries.

If baking in a 9 inch spring form, increase the baking time to 1 hour.

Ice Cream Sandwiches for a Birthday

I am swooning in sun drenched Seattle!  The rhododendrons are bursting with blossoms, the birds are chirping and the air is warm – in fact, I can say it was even hot over the weekend.  This all made for a marvelous Mother’s Day.  Unfortunately, I was feeling crummy with a cold (where did this come from in May?) but my family pampered me well, beginning with a mimosa in bed, giving me some much needed vitamin C.  My sniffles did not deter me from having a peaceful, relaxing day, though, which I spent dozing and reading in the sun ... and contemplating birthday sweets.

A festive air begins this week as we celebrate Isaac’s birthday.  Isaac brings joy and laughter to us each day, and I am incredibly proud to be his mama.  For a number of years, he has requested strawberry birthday cake, which I’m delighted to bake and is in the oven as I write.  This year, in addition to strawberry cake, we also made ice cream sandwiches.  You can never have too many birthday treats, right?

The stirrings of summer must have prompted thoughts of ice cream.  And, when I reflect on how quickly time passes (Isaac is turning 15), I am feeling nostalgic for childhood favorites.

A thin, cake-like cookie is filled with your choice of ice cream. Isaac chose two flavors - mint chip and coffee.  Let me tell you, these ice cream sandwiches are sublime!  The cookie is rich and chocolatey (especially with some added espresso powder) and licking the ice cream from the edges before biting into one is deeply satisfying.  They are perfect to make ahead and keep stashed in the freezer, which I plan to do all summer long!

Happy Birthday, Isaac!

The recipe I used is created by the wonderful Abby Dodge at Fine Cooking and can be seen here.

Peach Dumplings and a Homecoming

My whole family is home now! Woohoo! My younger son, Isaac, returned yesterday after three weeks away at camp. Bob and I joke that Isaac has only been visiting Seattle this summer, but it really is true. After a school trip to Japan and a visit with his grandparents in Boston, MA, he was home for two days before we said good-bye again. This time Isaac jumped on the bus with his buddies and departed for camp in Olympia, WA. Camp Solomon Schechter is beloved by the campers and the kids begin counting down to next summer’s session as soon as they arrive home. For now, though, we have our family together under one roof (Sam just returned from Washington, D.C. a few days ago) and this is cause for celebration!

One of our favorite summer meals is peach dumplings. Yup, dessert for dinner! The recipe is Czech and comes from Bob’s mother, Ann. When I first met Bob (almost 24 years ago) his mom served peach dumplings for dinner one evening. I loved the dumplings instantly (and his mom!). And what’s not to love? Sweet, juicy peaches are wrapped in a cheese dough, cooked, sliced in half and served with melted butter, sour cream and sugar. Oh my! (Yes, melted butter, sour cream and sugar – over the years, I’ve erred in trying to make these healthier by substituting whole wheat flour, whole grain bread crumbs, cinnamon and yogurt. No luck there. I’ve embraced the white flour, sugar and sour cream for dinner!)

I was touched when my mother-in-law shared the recipe with me and it evokes warm memories of her when I pull it out. Grandma's Peach Dumplings are what Sam and Isaac request most when peaches are in season and make the perfect celebratory meal for us. I’m a happy mama with the whole family around the table again!

Peach Dumplings
From my mother-in-law, Ann Cordes
Makes 10

For the dumplings
10 large, very ripe peaches
5 eggs
3 cups ricotta cheese (do not use homemade, the dumpling dough will be too soft)
3 cups unseasoned bread crumbs (very dry crumbs if using homemade)
3 cups all-purpose flour
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

To serve
Sour cream
Sugar
Melted butter

Rinse the peaches, dry and remove any stems (keep the peaches whole, no need to peel). Fill a large pot (8 quart) with water and start heating it on high heat.

In a large mixing bowl, whisk the eggs and then stir in the ricotta cheese and bread crumbs. Alternate adding the flour and melted butter. At this point, I find it easiest to use my hands to mix the dough.

When you have a smooth dough, shape it into a log on the kitchen counter and divide into 10 portions. Flatten one portion in your hands and wrap around a peach, being sure to seal it well (roll it around in your hands like a ball to smooth). Repeat with the remaining dough so you have 10 dumplings. You can make them earlier in the day up to this point. Just seal them in plastic wrap so they don’t dry out and keep in the fridge.

When the water is boiling, use a slotted spoon to lower 5 dumplings in. Move them around a bit to make sure they are not sticking to the bottom. Cover the pot partially and when the water returns to a boil, turn the heat down a little so it doesn’t boil over. Boil for 20 minutes.

Remove the dumplings carefully with a slotted spoon. Sometimes the dumpling dough will split or start to come off the peach...don’t worry, it’s still delicious even if it’s not looking perfect. Boil the next 5 dumplings in the same way. Keep the first 5 warm by putting them in a bowl and covering with a kitchen towel.

To serve, slice a dumpling in half and slather on sour cream, sugar and melted butter to your taste. I find the dumplings slice best if they have cooled for about 10 minutes. Enjoy!

Dates and Butter (and Goodbyes)

We’ve been leading up to two goodbyes in our household.  Did I mention they are happening on the same day?  That’s a lot for one mom to handle.  My first goodbye will be my younger son, Isaac.  He is going to Japan to visit Kyoto, Hiroshima and Kanazawa with his Japanese class from middle school.  Big sigh… so far away.  He will have a marvelous two week experience and I’m excited for him.

The second farewell is our exchange student, Mohammad.  We’ve been hosting Mohammad for the past year from Saudi Arabia.  What a special year!  He is 17 years old and truly became our son and brother.  We learned about each others’ cultures, countries and religions, and mostly realized how much we have in common.  Mohammad and my sons, Sam and Isaac, share so many of the same interests.  The sounds of them laughing and chatting together every day makes me smile.  Sports, music, movies, Xbox... all part of the universal language of teenaged boys. Hosting exchange students has allowed our family to expand in such a unique way.  I love that we can bring someone into our home and hearts and establish a relationship that will grow over the years.

It is fun for me to learn about traditional foods that Mohammad eats, especially for the holidays of Ramadan, Eid al Fitr and Eid al Ahda. He shared a simple Ramadan treat with us that is divine.  In Arabic, it is called Tamr Bizebdah, which translates as Dates and Butter.  Hmmmm … dates and butter.    Sweet, rich, sticky and addictive.  Dates are abundant in Saudi Arabia and there are many varieties.  Often, this date and butter dish is referred to by the name of the dates used to make it.  When Mohammad first told us about this treat, he said, “You might not like it.”  When I asked why, he said, “It has a lot of butter in it.”  I smiled and said, “I already love it!”  He cooks pureed dates with butter until it forms a soft pudding which is served warm.  During Ramadan, the first food eaten each evening to break the fast is a date.  Children are given this date and butter confection and it is understandably very popular with them.  It is often served with Arabic coffee or a thick yogurt drink.

During our dinner to celebrate Eid al Ahda, we did a tasting with medjool, golden zahidi and deglet noor dates.  Medjool are the ones that we see here most often and it was wonderful to compare sweetness and textures.  The deglet noor became my favorite.  Expanding on the theme of dates and butter, I made a Date Butter Tart for dessert from Suzanne Goin’s Sunday Suppers at Lucques.

Mohammad also introduced us to Vimto, and we dubbed it “Saudi soda.”  It has a flavor similar to Red Bull, which kids love. He described it to us as something special that he drinks during the holidays.  Imagine our thrill when we discovered it while eating at an Egyptian restaurant, Shawarma King, in Seattle!   I found I could purchase Vimto at Goodies Mediterranean Market.

The official exchange year may be coming to an end, but the future with Mohammad is just beginning.  Dates and butter (and Vimto) will always remind me of him and his infectious laugh.  And fortunately I’ll say hello to Isaac again in two weeks.  A mom can only take so much at one time!

Dates and Butter (Tamr Bizebdah)

from Mohammad

serves 3-4 children or 6-8 adults (it’s very rich)

13 oz date puree  (I have found packages in Middle Eastern markets of good quality date purees, or you can pit and puree whole dates with a little water to form a paste)

4 oz unsalted butter

In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat and swirl so it coats the sides of the pan.  This keeps the dates from sticking to the pan.  Add the date puree and stir with a wooden spoon until the dates absorb all the butter. This will take about 10 minutes.   Serve in small glass bowls and enjoy.

Date Butter Tart

from Sunday Suppers at Lucques by Suzanne Goin

serves 6-8

For the pate sucree:

2 tablespoons heavy cream

1 extra large egg yolk

11/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

31/2 tablespoons sugar

1/8 teaspsoon kosher salt

1 stick unsalted butter

For the tart:

35 to 40 deglet noor dates (another variety may be used, just make sure they’re plump and juicy)

1/2 vanilla bean

9 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 extra large eggs

2/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar

1/3 cup all-purpose flour

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

Vanilla ice cream

Make the pate sucree: Whisk the cream and egg yolk together in a small bowl.  In a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, combine the flour, sugar, salt and butter on medium speed until you have a coarse meal.  (Or use a food processor and pulse until you have a coarse meal.)  Gradually add the cream and yolk and mix until just combined.  Do not overwork the dough.  Transfer to a large work surface and bring it together with your hands to incorporate completely.  Shape it into a 1-inch disc and put in the refrigerator for 5 to 10 minutes to firm up.  Place it on a lightly floured work surface, sprinkle a little flour over the dough and roll it out into a 1/4 -inch-thick circle.  Starting at one side, roll and wrap the dough around the rolling pin to pick it up.  Unroll the dough over a 10-inch tart pan.  Gently fit the dough loosely into the pan, lifting the edges and pressing the dough into the corners with your fingers.  To remove the excess dough, roll the rolling pin lightly over the top of the tart pan for a nice, clean edge.  Chill for 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.  Prick the bottom of the dough with a fork and line the tart shell with a piece of parchment paper.  Fill the lined tart shell with beans or pie weights and bake 15 minutes.  Take the tart out of the oven and gently lift out the paper and beans.  Return to the oven and bake another 10 to 15 minutes, until the tart is an even golden brown.  Set aside on a rack to cool completely.

Make a vertical slit in each date and carefully remove the pit.  Use your finger to press the dates back into their natural shape.  Place the dates, slit side down, in concentric circles in the tart shell, leaving 1/2 inch between each date.

Slice the vanilla bean in half lengthwise and use a paring knife to scrape the seeds and pulp onto the butter.  Heat a medium sauté pan over medium heat for 1 minute.  Add the vanilla-streaked butter and the vanilla pod to the pan and cook 6 to 8 minutes, until the butter browns and smells nutty.  Discard the vanilla pod.

Whisk the eggs and 2/3 cup sugar together in a bowl.  Whisk in the flour and salt and stir in the warm butter to incorporate.

Pour the batter over the dates in the tart shell.  Sprinkle the top with the remaining tablespoon sugar. Bake 30 minutes, until the filling puffs up, browns and sets.  Cool tart at least 20 minutes and serve with scoops of vanilla ice cream.